FV-1 reverb pedal build help/advice

Hardware questions and issues with the FV-1

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POGART
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Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 3:26 pm

FV-1 reverb pedal build help/advice

Post by POGART »

Newer than new noob (more of a solder by numbers guy) so here go's. I built up an FV-1(chip from small bear) reverb board by aresaudio and fired it up and I have sound in bypass, when the "wet/dry" pot is fully ccw to dry. But when I turn it clock wise to add in the reverb the dry signal drops out. There is no reverb effect at all. At first I heard clicking and ticking type sounds and a slight whooshing if that makes sense. I noticed the FV-1 chip was slightly hot to touch. I am unsure if this is how it feels to begin with but I am a little worried I fried it somehow. I reflowed all solder joints and checked for bridges, I did not see any. I followed the schematic as best I could with my DMM but did not have voltages to base the results off of. I will try my audio probe but not sure where to follow the path too. After reflowing the joints there is no longer any "whooshing" or clicking but still dry signal is gone when effect is turned up.Francesco form aresaudio explained the wiring for the Binary coded rotary switch and I followed the build doc but that is slightly different than the actual board. Here are a few images of both sides of the board. Any direction for me would be great. I may be over my head but keen to figure this out. Thanks Pete image2.jpegimage1.jpeg
Digital Larry
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Post by Digital Larry »

Don't see the images and no, it should not be hot.
POGART
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Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 3:26 pm

Post by POGART »

Will set the images up on a site as per instructions for posting them. So I must have something crossed to cause the heated chip then?. I'll retest everything this week. Thanks for replying Larry. [/img]
ice-nine
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Post by ice-nine »

Have you checked the 3.3v regulator is actually putting out 3.3v. I'm not familiar with the pcb you are using but some 3.3v regs have a different pin out, so if it reversed you will be putting the wrong voltage on the FV-1 chip . This would cause it to overheat and possible damage.
POGART
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Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 3:26 pm

Post by POGART »

There was a 3.3v regulator included with the board and only one way to solder it to the pads. I checked for voltages last night and they seemed fine. I tried again this morning and they seemed to be jumping around a bit. The fv-1 was warming up after a few seconds so i unplugged it. He did mention I did not have to use a 10vziener diode if I was using a 9v power source. I realize I included the diode in the build. Should that be removed?.
frank
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Post by frank »

You should check with the place you got the board/schematic, they can best answer things about voltage protection, etc. in their design.

If the FV-1 is heating up then there is something shorted on the board around the FV-1, look at all FV-1 pins and what they connect to. Check voltages on all FV-1 pins. Maybe even remove the FV-1 and check for shorts under it and check voltages at the pads with the FV-1 removed.
Frank Thomson
Experimental Noize
POGART
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Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 3:26 pm

Post by POGART »

Thanks Frank, I appreciate the help and direction. I have emailed the designer of the board and am waiting for a response. In the meantime I'll check for a short. I noticed that the solder on two pads of the pot connections were a little close but there seems to be space between them. I'll be even more thorough this time and focus around the areas you suggest to start. I may be a few days late on posting what I find, I've got a few shows to do. Thanks again for the help.
Pete
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